Aldabra Stifiuc-Andronic is a 2nd year biomedical science student at Imperial College London
Jennifer McCallum is a Scottish PhD scientist and senior medical writer based in Doha, Qatar; she currently works for St Gilesmedical, London
Christine Oesterling is a GP Principal at Eastmead Surgery, Greenford, London, and Senior Research Fellow at Imperial College London
Amira Anbar is a pharmacist and medical writer at St Gilesmedical, London
Steven Walker is director at St Gilesmedical in London and Berlin, and Honorary Lecturer at University College London
People are becoming increasingly aware of cosmetic ingredients and how they interact with the body’s chemistry. Tools used to rate products based on their composition are popular, exemplified by the Yuka app and its 50 million users since 2017. As our largest organ, the skin performs vital functions that include microorganism protection, sensation, and temperature regulation.1 Its selective permeability allows some fat-soluble chemicals to be absorbed – making it an ideal delivery system for selective drug treatments (e.g., nicotine patches and menopausal hormone therapy). The skincare industry recognises different skin types: oily, dry, normal, combination and sensitive – affecting the appearance and feeling of the skin. Genetics mainly influences the skin type (e.g., acne severity),2 but other factors such climate, lifestyle, aging, and other health conditions present opportunities to develop solution-based formulations.
Current trends in skincare may offer some positives – shaping perceptions and connecting brands with audiences. One example is increased awareness of sunscreen use.
Aging is universal, and as the epidermis thins we may experience uneven pigmentation and drier skin due to changes in keratinocytes, fewer melanocytes, and reduction of sebum production.3 Cosmetics are designed to delay or minimise these effects to prolong a youthful appearance through popular formulations containing retinol, sunscreens, and collagen. Other biologically active ingredients can help to treat conditions like keratosis pilaris, eczema, acne, and rosacea.4 Single-ingredient formulations allow the customisation of skincare routines by combining products for optimal results – this trend is relayed by online “skinfluencers” and dermatologists sharing routines designed to manage various concerns. Some examples include:
1. Glycolic acid, kojic acid and vitamin C to treat and lighten hyperpigmentation caused by sun exposure, or after an acne breakout, in a normal/combination skin type
2. Urea, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides for keratosis pilaris (harmless red bumps on the skin due to keratin blockage of the hair follicle) in a sensitive skin type
3. Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, niacinamide and aloe vera to treat cystic acne in an oily skin type.
Social media seems to be particularly effective in influencing Generation Z.5 Current trends in skincare may offer some positives – shaping perceptions and connecting brands with audiences. One example is increased awareness of sunscreen use. Brands like Beauty of Joseon and La Roche Posay advocate daily sunscreen use (chemically through actives like avobenzone or physically through zinc oxide) – crucial for protecting skin from harmful UV rays that can cause skin cancer and premature aging.6 It recognises the importance of sun protection for all complexions, including darker skin tones, challenging the misconception that melanin-rich skin does not need sunscreen. Meanwhile, Weleda and True Botanicals focus emphasize sustainable sourcing and avoiding harmful chemicals thanks to a rising trend promoting organic cosmetics. Amongst these, there are natural skincare DIY ‘trends’ that warrant caution. Honey and oatmeal masks may offer hydration and exfoliation, but lemon juice causes skin irritation, and photosensitivity due to its acidity.7
Should a 12-year-old need to worry about getting wrinkles?
Trends are not always beneficial though; they can harm self-esteem and fuel body dysmorphia. Recent trends like ‘glass-skin’ and ‘clean girl aesthetic’ have been criticized for promoting unrealistic beauty standards and consumerism, especially through social media. The widespread promotion of retinols targets a very young, pre-teen demographic. The ‘Sephora Kids’ trend highlights this, where children with a strong interest in trendy cosmetics buy products containing active ingredients that are too powerful for their skin. Potent retinoids like tretinoin (for severe acne and to reduce wrinkles)8 require a prescription, but many retinol products are available over the counter without age restriction and these trends encourage the premature use of strong skincare agents – risking skin irritation or even chemical burns. Should a 12-year-old need to worry about getting wrinkles?
We would advocate for the comprehensive examination of regulations and advertising to protect vulnerable consumers. This would likely encourage greater transparency and awareness of potentially harmful ingredients and provide customers with more informed choices. For example, parabens (used as preservatives) readily enter the body easily through dermal absorption. Research on the endocrine-disrupting effects of parabens commenced after paraben particles were found in some people suffering from breast cancer. It is hypothesised that parabens could possibly exert an affect by target nuclear hormone receptors.9 Currently, in the EU, there are limits on the use of propylparaben and butylparaben depending on the formulation;10 however, their effects on human reproductive functioning are still being explored. Other chemicals such as triclosan (linked to immune and thyroid issues)11 and toluene (toxic to the liver and immune system)12 are further causes of concern. Fragrances may also result irritation in people with sensitive skin types. Accordingly, some companies are making an ‘absence’ into a ‘positive.’ Dove, for example, takes pride in not using components such lyral, triclosan and lilial.13
Many of us will continue, sometimes in vain, to attempt to make ourselves appear more attractive. Be assured that the cosmetics industry will do their best to develop new ingredients and techniques of administration to tempt us. This trend will likely expand as we gain a greater understand of skin science and the genetics of aging. The outcome could be more effective but potentially more dangerous products. Should this be the direction of travel then we will need better consumer information, labelling and regulation to prevent harm. All of this might lead one to reflect on whether there is always a need for fancy product to address an imaginary concern. Imperfection is human. You are human, and you are beautiful.
References:
1. Lopez-Ojeda, W., Pandey, A., Alhajj, M. and Oakley, A.M. (2020). Anatomy, Skin (Integument). [online] PubMed. Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK441980/.
2. Zhang, H. and Zhang, Z. (2023). Genetic Variants Associated with Acne Vulgaris. International Journal of General Medicine, Volume 16, pp.3843–3856. doi:https://doi.org/10.2147/ijgm.s421835.
3. Farage, M.A., Miller, K.W., Elsner, P. and Maibach, H.I. (2013). Characteristics of the Aging Skin. Advances in Wound Care, [online] 2(1), pp.5–10. doi:https://doi.org/10.1089/wound.2011.0356.
4. Research, C. for D.E. and (2023). Drugs@FDA Glossary of Terms. FDA. [online] Available at: https://www.fda.gov/drugs/drug-approvals-and-databases/drugsfda-glossary-terms#A [Accessed 29 Jul. 2024].
5. www.monigroup.com. (n.d.). Younger Shoppers Heavily Influenced By Social Media | moni. [online] Available at: https://www.monigroup.com/article/younger-shoppers-heavily-influenced-social-media.
6. Sander, M., Sander, M., Burbidge, T. and Beecker, J. (2020). The Efficacy and Safety of Sunscreen Use for the Prevention of Skin Cancer. Canadian Medical Association Journal, [online] 192(50), pp.E1802–E1808. doi:https://doi.org/10.1503/cmaj.201085.
7. Mioduszewski, M. and Beecker, J. (2015). Phytophotodermatitis from making sangria: a phototoxic reaction to lime and lemon juice. Canadian Medical Association Journal, 187(10), pp.756–756. doi:https://doi.org/10.1503/cmaj.140942.
8. RxList. (n.d.). Accutane vs. Retin-A for Severe Acne (Pimples): Differences & Side Effects. [online] Available at: https://www.rxlist.com/accutane_vs_retin-a/drugs-condition.htm#:~:text=A%20Be%20Taken%3F- [Accessed 26 Jul. 2024].
9. Nowak, K., Ratajczak–Wrona, W., Górska, M. and Jabłońska, E. (2018). Parabens and their effects on the endocrine system. Molecular and Cellular Endocrinology on ScienceDirect, [online] 474, pp.238–251. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016.
10. European Commission – European Commission. (n.d.). Press corner. [online] Available at: https://ec.europa.eu/commission/presscorner/detail/en/IP_14_1051.
11. Weatherly, L.M. and Gosse, J.A. (2017). Triclosan exposure, transformation, and human health effects. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, [online] 20(8), pp.447–469. doi:https://doi.org/10.1080/10937404.2017.1399306.
12. www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov. (2017). PUBLIC HEALTH STATEMENT FOR TOLUENE. [online] Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK592508/.
13. Dove UK. (n.d.). Rethinking our ingredients. [online] Available at: https://www.dove.com/uk/stories/about-dove/rethinking-our-ingredients.html.
Featured photo by Nsey Benajah on Unsplash.
